by Karla Lester
When middle kid Audrey graduated from college a semester early, she announced she would be heading to France to be an au pair. Quickly, she had to go to Chicago for her French work visa and get everything in order. She was excited to go to Saintes, France, a five hour drive from Paris to live with the sweetest family with two adorable and energetic children, Juliette and Charles (pronounced Sharl in French).
My husband and I decided to visit Audrey in Saintes and spend the last three days in Paris. It seems like a strange time to travel to France. To say au revoir to all the troubles in the world and visit Europe. I was counting on a great visit to France to see parts of the country I hadn’t seen and a great visit with Audrey. What I wasn’t counting on was the opportunity to get to know the French family she’s staying with and see what their lives are like.
Juliette is seven and Charles is four. Audrey adores their little French voices, exuberance, and the funny things they say and do. She’s taught them “catch me if you can” and “close the door” and tries to teach them English when they are interested, which isn’t often, since they are busy with school, which is four days a week along with their music and dance classes.
We were expecting to have a nice visit with Audrey, but not the hospitality that their busy family showed to us. They have a lovely home they built in Saintes on the hill above Le fleuve Charente, the Charente river, which flooded when Audrey got to town. The flood had dissipated by the time we arrived, but had impacted the town greatly. We visited the sites in Saintes, including the Roman amphitheater. Audrey laughed zooming in on a picture of me in the middle of the amphitheater in all my Mom bod glory. She titled the pic, A true gladiator. This is what it’s like having young adult children.
Just like American families navigating the busy hustle of everyday life. Both parents are busy working and taking care of their family, getting kids to their activities. Just like American families, they are working to keep screen time to a minimum and struggle to negotiate and get their kids off screens. Juliette and Charles love Bluey just like American kids. Nico is a doctor and Alice is a lawyer. As busy professionals, watching them took me back to raising young kids which are days I miss and also make me tired thinking of them.
Regard! Regard! Look! Look! Charles and Juliette showed us their toys and their rooms and their books. Encore! Encore! Again! Again! Charles and Juliette laughed hysterically at Darek, my husband, who was pretending to lift a balloon leftover from Juliette’s birthday party, acting like it weighed a ton. Then, they tried and showed their parents their new trick. Audrey knew the kids would laugh at her funny Dad and won’t even notice that we don’t speak French. Charles especially didn’t care. He just loved running around the house, yelling, “Catch me if you can.”
Alice and Nico talked about not being political. When raising young children, there’s no time to be political. They did share that the U.S. has always been a protector, but now that isn’t the case and Russia is very close. It’s a worry. They pay a lot in taxes, just like we do in America and wonder where it’s going. Their economy is also struggling and they worry about housing, jobs, healthcare and education. They are thinking about the people in France and not just themselves or their own interests. They are open minded and surprised that we are too.
We talked about where to go in Paris and about France. They asked what Americans think of French people. Do they think the streets of Paris are dirty? I said no that Americans think the French don’t like us. They said that’s the English after Brexit.
They love Yellowstone, the show and would love to visit the National Park, but their favorite show is The Office. Alice and Nico have both been to the United States and want to take Juliette and Charles and want them to learn English. Alice loves cowboys and wants to see real live cowboys in America. Nico would rather visit New York City. They worry about guns in America if they visit. I didn’t know what to say other than we are very worried too.
There’s nothing intuitive about French. Je ne parle pas Francais is what Audrey taught me as we were heading to Paris without her for the last leg of our trip. During the stay in Saintes, I kept thinking I was able to intuitively figure out what people were saying and I kept coming up wrong. Audrey basically said, even though it’s obvious to any French person you try to talk to, you need this simple statement, Mom. Je ne parle pas Francais. It made me think of how many things I get lost in translation in English.
Most people don’t speak English in the area of Saintes, France. The lady cutting up a quiche in a bakery in Cognac, where we visited and toured the Cognac distillery, asking if my husband wanted it cut in half, I thought was asking if he wanted a box for his quiche. She’s asking if you want a box. “No, she’s not, Mom," Audrey chuckled. “She’s asking if he wants the quiche cut in half.”
The woman at the train station asking if we needed two or three tickets, I could have sworn, was asking for our driver’s license which you do have to show to buy a train ticket in France. Even on the rare occasion a person spoke English, I would call Audrey over to translate. Darek needed some antacids after too many cups of strong French coffee while visiting La Rochelle, a beautiful port city where we made 7 food and drink stops. I didn’t know the pharmacist could speak English and so called Audrey over a bit too loudly, “Audrey, we need you over here. Je ne parley vous Francais? I can’t remember how you say I don’t speak French, but my daughter does speak French.” “You need antacids,” the pharmacist asked clear as a bell. At that moment, in France, I had turned into my Mom, Barb, who used to embarrass the heck out of me in stores. “I’m embarrassing my daughter because I have this sweat mustache. But, just you wait, when you go through menopause and get hot flashes yourself. You can’t help it. It’s no fun.” New Barbism unlocked, this time in France.
Audrey’s about to the level of a 3 to 4 year old with her French, thanks to Lincoln Public Schools, Macalester College, Juliette and Charles and mostly her host Alice, who is always teaching Audrey French. I was so proud to see how Audrey is leaning into her immersion experience. It’s easy for her because she loves Juliette and Charles and their parents are the sweetest people. She’s always working to teach Juliette and Charles English.
The high speed train to Paris was a great experience. As No Kings protests erupted across America and the globe, I was experiencing angst that I wasn’t there, but also enjoying the cognitive dissonance of a last day of sightseeing in Paris. I watched videos pop up on TikTok of The Boss singing his protest song in Minneapolis. Protests happen all the time in France, the last time we were in Paris strikes were happening. It was very calm this visit and I almost felt an eeriness about being an American in France. It seemed like people were quiet and almost distrusting and more nervous around us this visit. All the walls came down when we got to meet with Audrey’s host family. Their country is beautiful like their language, especially when little kids are speaking it. We had lovely meals at their home and played with their kids and learned about their beautiful lives and left with gratitude.
au revoir bonne journée












